Tuesday, April 26, 2016

UK Visit - April 2016

During my April 2016 trip home to Derbyshire I did a few interesting things that I hadn’t done before - one was to cycle along the High Peak trail, an old railway line in the Peak District repurposed as a bike trail, and the other was to visit Renishaw Hall in Eckington and the other was a visit to the Great Central Railway station at Quorn in Leicestershire, a station preserved as a World War II era station.


As I said the High Peak Trail is an old railway line built way back in 1831 to carry minerals from the High Peak down to the canals at Whaley Bridge.  Since it was closed in the Beeching Era, the tracks have been removed and it has been resurfaced as a bicycle/walking trail.  The bicycle ride was the idea of my university friend Stuart McCulloch and I met up with him and Paul Nicholas, also from University days at the delightfully sounding Parsley Hay.  Parsley Hay was a station on the line, not far from Monyash.  It is now a recreational center and cafe where you can rent bicycles for the day.


Near Parsley Hay, from High Peak Trail looking down Tissington Trail
Being a railway line, for the most part, the grade is very gentle and an easy ride through some wonderful countryside.  There were remarkable sections where the rail bed had been built up to cross a valley, or a cutting dug to pass through a hill side - all by human hand in those days of course.   What a construction project - one of hundreds that were probably going on at the same time in the UK.

High Peak Trail
So for the most part the bicycle riding was easy - with the exception of a couple of hills - the first was Hopton Hill (1 in 14), the second was from +Middleton Top down to Black Rocks near Cromford (1 in 8.5).  We were not out to prove anything so we stopped at Middleton Top and had an ice cream before returning.  At Middleton Top there is an engine house that contains an old steam engine used to pull by cable wagons/trains up the incline from Cromford.  Another fine piece of Victorian engineering.


Engine House at Middleton Top
Near Parsley Hay is the junction with the Tissington Trail.  Another railway to trail conversion that is apparently even more scenic than the High Peak Trail.   We will leave that for the next time.




Renishaw Hall
Renishaw Hall is in Eckington, just 3 miles from where I grew up in Staveley.  I always knew there was a Hall at Renishaw but I had never seen it or even entered its grounds.  It is alluded to be the setting for D.H. Lawerence’s Lady Chatterly’s Lover.  

Renishaw Hall
Gardens at Renishaw Hall
Nowadays the gardens are open to the public, there is a small cafe, a museum and the house itself is open one day a week (Friday).  I was out driving around with mum in the car and no particular destination in mind when we happened to pass the gates to the Hall so we decided to pop in and have a bite to eat in the cafe.  I was pleasantly surprised at the grandeur of the place and the absolutely wonderful gardens.  We took the garden tour (a lot of work for me when mum is in a wheelchair and the ground is soggy from recent rains).  
Bluebells at Renishaw Hall
The bluebells were out as well as the daffodils and narcissi.  It was all quite splendid and I vow to return, on a Friday, to see the house itself.  Apparently in the house are weird artifacts like Montgomery’s pyjamas, Mussolini’s cigarette case, and Goering’s cufflinks.


Some more pictures of Renishaw Hall gardens.


Quorn Station
The trip to the Great Central Railway in Quorn was organized by my cousin Trevor who volunteers for the railway.  Quorn is one of the stations on the line from Loughborough to Leicester that runs a schedule of old steam trains along around 8 miles of track.  The stations along the line are representative of stations from different eras.  The Quorn station is World War II vintage.  It has the usual General Waiting Room for everyone, a Ladies Waiting Room offering privacy and quiet to the fair sex, the old tile and porcelain toilets, ticket offices, and because it is wartime a NAAFI, the Navy, Army, Air Force Institution that runs a waiting room and cafe.  


Steam Train at Quorn
There were a couple of steam trains that came in while we were there.  Being someone who grew up with steam locomotives and an avid trainspotter in those days these wonderful living pieces of iron and steel still excite me.  Judging by the number of people riding these old steam trains, of which there are quite a few in the UK, I am not alone.
The Cousins at Quorn
More photographs of the station visit are here.
















Stockholm - March 2016

At the end of March, I made a very brief visit to Stockholm, Sweden on my way home to the UK.  I flew Norwegian Air for the first time - they recently started direct flights from Oakland to Stockholm and Oslo and they are significantly cheaper than the other airlines flying direct to Europe.

The flight was great - a new aircraft, a Boeing 787 Dreamliner.  It was the first time I had flown one and I must say I liked it very much.  It is quiet, has great lighting that adjusts according to the stage of the flight, and it allows for higher pressurization and more moist air which seem to make the whole flight more pleasant.


Hotel Radisson - Nybrokaijen
Landing in Arlanda I took the express train into the city center - very clean, very efficient, very fast (as most things are in Sweden - except the fast bit, Volvo’s aren’t particularly fast).  I had found a good deal at the Radisson Blu on the waterfront (on Nybrokaijen) and it was just a short walk from the Central Station.  The nice thing about these older hotels in European cities is that they have single rooms which while pretty small are sometimes pretty cheap and are just perfect for solo traveling.  


This was my 4th time to visit Stockholm (previously hitchhiking through Europe in 1970, on the way back from work in Gotland in 1974, the Stockholm Marathon in 2006) and I don’t think I had ever visited the old part of town Gamla Stan so my first priority was to check that out.  It was a nice walk over to Gamla Stan along the waterside and past the impressive Royal Palace and the statue of Gustav III.  


The Royal Palace
The cobbled streets and buildings in the old town date from the 17th and 18th centuries and, as can be expected, the whole area has been gentrified and antique dealers, art galleries and expensive clothes shops abound.  The guide book mentions the tiniest of statues, the Iron Boy, in a small courtyard a short distance away from the Royal Palace - it is about 6 in high and adorned with a knitted hat to keep its head warm in the winter time - different at least.


The Smallest Statue
There’s an impressive statue of St George slaying the dragon in Kopmantorget.  
St George
Then at the other end of the street is Stortorget the oldest square in Stockholm.  Very picturesque and photogenic.  


Stortorget
The square contains the old Stock Exchange which is now the home of the Nobel Museum.  Low and behold, the museum is free on Tuesday’s after 5:00 pm and it was just 5:00 pm on the Tuesday when I landed outside the museum.  At first sight it perhaps wasn’t the most exciting of museums but I took the tour and the tour guide was most entertaining and informative.  Interesting facts I learned:
  • Nobel did not spend much time in Sweden.  He was just born there.
  • The Peace Prize is the sole prize presented in Oslo because Nobel wanted to promote cooperation between the Scandinavian countries.
  • There is no Nobel Prize in Economics - that is the Nobel Memorial Prize in Economics, a different thing, created in the 1960’s long after Nobel died.
  • Hitler and Stalin (twice) were both nominated for Nobel Peace Prizes.

Street in Gamla Stan
After the Nobel Museum, I continued to wander around Gamla Stan taking in the views of Kungsholmen with its fine City Hall and the more bohemian and artsy Sodermalm.  I retired to the hotel for a fine meal of Swedish Meatballs (even better than IKEA’s) and a well earned rest.


Next morning, after the always very fine Scandinavian Hotel breakfast buffet, I took off to walk around the more modern part of town.  Not nearly as interesting as the old town but typically neat and clean and tidy.  In one of the parks there was the last remaining bank of leftover snow. It was still cool, but spring was on the way.  After not being terribly inspired by the modern architecture, I ventured into the Metro system to check out what is reported to be the longest art exhibit in the world - a series of artist-decorated stations.  The Metro itself is fine - clean, efficient, frequent trains, etc, but the so-called artwork was not very impressive.  I don’t know what I was expecting - something on the lines of the Moscow Subway perhaps, but this was pretty basic painting of the walls with the odd bit of fairly crude artwork.  Not all stations are decorated and the ones that did and that I saw were pretty underwhelming.  

Subway Art

Subway Art

Subway Art
After the subway ride, I walked over to the Modern Art Museum on Skeppsholmen (another island joined by a bridge to the main city).  A nice collection with all the usual suspects - Picasso, Dali, Munch, Duchamp.  Well worth the visit and the restaurant was quite fine and affordable, something you can’t say about too many places in Stockholm.


The Nordic Museum
Following lunch I set off for the Nordic Museum which is on the island of Djurgarden.  It was a lovely walk over there alongside the water and past some magnificent old homes - on Strandvagen.  The Nordic Museum is a most impressive building, more impressive on the outside than the museum’s contents in some ways.  Not to take away anything from the museum’s contents which are indeed a fine collection of items depicting Swedish life over the last 500 years.


A little further out of town from the Nordic Museum is the ABBA Museum and the Scandinavian Music Hall of Fame.  I didn’t go in, but I did find it remarkable that there should even be an ABBA Museum yet alone a Scandinavian Music Hall of Fame (who else is there?).  It didn’t look a very large museum, as you might expect.


By now it was late afternoon, so I headed back towards the old town and walked around this wonderful area one more time.  The guards were changing at the Royal Palace so there was a little bit of ceremony to observe.  
Kayakers in the City Center
There is a stretch of water next to the Royal Palace where the water flows quite fast and there are some rapids there.  Kayakers were playing around in this section of water - it looked great fun, though perhaps mightily cold if you capsized.  I finished the evening with another fine dish of Swedish Meatballs.


The City Hall
The next day, I had a mid-day flight from Stockholm to Heathrow so there was only time for a brief walk around town before leaving.  I walked over to the City Hall on Kungsholmen.  It was was overrun by Chinese or Korean tourists - all male and all taking photos galore.  The City hall is where the Nobel Prize Awards Banquet is held.  Then it was back to the hotel and off to the Central Station and the express ride out to Arlanda airport.

Here are some more photographs.