Barcelona - April 2019

At the end of our trip to Provence we caught the train from Perpignan to Barcelona as that was one of the more convenient places to fly back to the USA for Nancy and to the UK for me.  We had a nice smooth on time TGV ride into Barcelona into the Sants station, the largest one in the city. We stumbled out into the city with the expectation of perhaps taking a Uber to the hotel only to find that Uber no longer operated there.  The city passed a law that requires a 15 minute delay on any ride hailing app effectively putting them out of business. Interestingly Uber Eats are still operating there and appear to be quite popular.

Anyway without Uber and not in the right place for a cab we headed off to walk guided by Google Maps.  The city streets we walked down were not that interesting, it just looked like a huge city with lots of traffic, lots of people, lots of uninteresting apartment buildings, etc.  After a little more walking than we wanted to do with packs on our backs we made it to the hotel, the Hotel Barcino only to find that the hotel had a problem and our floor was out of action so we were sent to another hotel in the chain.  Not ideal as the other hotel was not in such a good location but we could live with it. They arranged a taxi to take us to the new hotel.

One of the hundreds of impressively ornate buildings

and another

We dropped the bags in the room and set off to explore.  It had been over 50 years since I was there and frankly I couldn’t really remember much about it.  I don’t think I did the tourist sites too much in those days. After a little walking in the center of the town I did reevaluate my opinion on Barcelona. It is a wonderful city with an immense number of beautiful buildings. The Rambla, one of the main tourist streets, was full of market stalls, restaurants and cafes but of course it was also full of people.  That soon became my pet peeve about the place - there are way too many tourists (like me). We walked the length of it and came out into Catalunya Square. Along the way we had to do some shopping, not my favorite thing to do but Nancy needed clothes, and I'm afraid I did acquire a new pullover.

The Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia

We had a late lunch stop for some paella and then headed up the hill towards the Sagrada Familia, Gaudí’s extravagant and over the top cathedral which is still a work in progress.  It is a spectacular looking cathedral but I must say I think it is a bit Disneyish and not quite what I like. Of course the whole site was so busy and thronged with people that the whole thing didn’t make me want to stay around too long and we didn't even try to go in.  

The Gaudi Apartments

We walked back into town passing on the way two more Gaudí buildings - the Apartments and the Casa Battlo.  The apartments are wonderful and real people do still live in them even though there are daily tours of the building.  The Casa Battlo was being renovated and was covered in cladding. That was a shame as pictures of it on the web show it to be outstanding.

We found a nice Tapas bar on the way back for some snacks and a beverage.   There are so many of those small restaurants and they all look great and they are not over the top expensive.

Nancy was leaving the next morning so after breakfast we packed her bags and took the hike to Catalunya Square where the buses leave for the airport.  There is a constant stream of buses leaving every 10 minutes throughout the day, a very efficient system.

Gaudi House in Park Guell

After Nancy left I walked back out towards the Park Güell.  Another Gaudí work. A planned housing and park development that never quite got completed.  Some nice buildings and walkways and walls though. Weird and wonderful but not always my cup of tea.  I know the term gaudy did not come from Mr Gaudi but it is pretty close in some ways.

Walkway in Park Guell

Structures in Park Guell

Back down the hill again into town and to the hotel to get switched back to the original hotel we should have stayed in yesterday.  A much nicer and better located hotel.

Christopher Columbus Statue

Next I went down to the waterfront to look at the extravagant yachts and boats and the new shopping mall at the harbor.  There were some seriously large motor yachts in the harbor, some very serious money. The new stuff around the harbor didn’t appeal to me but the port building, the customs building and the statue to Christopher Columbus were interesting.

Roof detail of Customs Building

I then walked over to have lunch at the Fabrica Moritz brewery, a place that had been recommended by friends in Sacramento. It was a large modern brew pub. Great beer and the food wasn't at all bad.

The Cathedral of Barcelona

Next it was back over to the Cathedral area. I didn't go inside but wandered around the surrounding streets. The whole courtyard in front of the cathedral was thronged with people. Perhaps because it was Sunday, perhaps because it was always like that.

The Arc de Triomphe

Detail of the Arc de Triomphe

In the late afternoon I walked over to the Arc de Triomphe and the park behind it.  There are so many beautiful buildings and statues everywhere you look. In the park behind the Arc there is a promenade flanked by the most ornate of lamp posts. Each one is a work of art in itself. Lots of folk selling colorful helium balloons in the park which made for nice photos.

Lamp Post near Arc de Triomphe

Balloons for Sale

In the evening after dark there was a young man singing an operatic piece in one of the small squares adjacent to the cathedral.  What a voice and how it echoed around the narrow streets - simply beautiful. There was also a flamenco dancer who performed on a small square board, maybe 3 feet square, and he made wonderful percussive sounds with his feet complemented by clapping his hands.   Both were quite moving.

The Catalan Flag

All over town you signs of the Catalan independence movement. There are lots of flags draped from various buildings and apartments. I sense that battle is not over yet.

That was the end of the day and I was leaving the next morning.  It was an early rise to catch the bus to the airport and the Easy Jet flight back to London.  Barcelona is a wonderful city with many amazing sights, but I fear it is being spoiled by us tourists.  One banner hanging from a balcony read "Tourist.  What did you come here to see.  You are consuming Barcelona as if it were a Theme Park".

There are more photos here.